Nil Diya Pokuna – Ravana’s Mythical Pool in the Lankan Highlands
Nil Diya Pokuna or blue water pond has always been a place of fascination for many people. The blue water pool exists 800 metres below in the caverns of the earth in Sri Lanka’s central highlands. Located off the Ella Wellawaya road, the access to this site is through many winding roads. Once you arrive, there is a small office set up by the villagers who have assigned guides to take people.
The charges were Rs. 1500 for locals and Rs. 3000 for foreigners. The office gives a briefing – in English for foreigners – with a book of images and explains the different levels, what to expect and how to behave. There are many signs stating those with health conditions like heart issues and epilepsy should avoid going and no alcohol consumption is allowed. This is great as many Sri Lankans go and ruin beautiful spots by polluting it with their junk and bottles.
We were assigned Keerthi as our guide and they gave him 3 helmets with headlamps for the 3 of us. We started off, just past 9am through a little foresty trail and after a short walk (500 metres) we came to a little Buddha statue mounted in a Budhuge which had a lamp lit to it. Keerthi explained that they start the day by lighting the lamp and dedicating the day’s activities to the Buddha. Just on the other side of this was a hole like a well leading into the ground with a wooden ladder jutting out of it – we had arrived at the entrance to the cave.
Keerthi helped us wear our helmets – mine was a bit shaky because of my hair band and plait – note to self to move them for next time. After that he explained what to expect and how to go down and we started off down along the first ladder.
Once we reached that bottom there was another narrow opening with an iron ladder jutting up. He explained how to go down this and we proceeded down. Once we stepped down from that, we came to the beginning of what seemed like little steps or niches cut into the ground. This was inside and dark and we started down from here following Keerthi along the path inside the rock.
We went through the darkness with our lamps lighting the way. The ground was almost a solid clay-like mud with little glinty bits of graphite studded into it. It was beautiful – at one point he asked us to switch off our lights to experience what pitch blackness was. It was eerie and wonderful at the same time.
After meandering along boulders and paths and going through sideways we happened upon a large cavern. The roof was almost cut in a V shape and there were layers of multi coloured rock. There was calcium dripping forming stalactites in one corner. Keerthi flashed his big flashlight to the roof and showed us what looked like an outline drawing of a bird’s head – a harking back to Ravana and his dhandu monara which was supposed to be like a helicopter that transported him.
On another side he showed us the profile of a face on the side of the rock – it looked a natural formation to me. There was the slight ammonia smell of bat droppings but at this time there were no bats.
After taking a few pictures, we meandered down along more rocky boulders and paths and came to another side walking area where we had to crouch a bit and go sideways. After a point we could see the blue water way below by the light of our head lamps. We journeyed on and came to the bottom where the pool starts. The water was a Prussian blue and aquamarine. It was clear and still with the boulders visible at the bottom. Absolutely stunning and pristine. We were the only ones who were there which was great and we could truly enjoy the stillness of the place.
We had worn our swimsuits under our clothes, so we stripped and got in the water. It was icy cold – like stepping into iced water – but so refreshing. I felt the air was purer here than it was inside the cavern. After immersing myself bit by bit I got in fully and swam around a bit.
Keerthi used his big flashlight he brought along and he held this to the water – that is the only way we could see well. All the guides carry these lights.
My friend and I spent some time near the rocks and then we swam out a bit more. According to Keerthi the depth in the middle was about 10 to 15 feet. I was not going to dive down to check it out but I swam around. I remembered that Dharshana Jayawardena (a well known diver) had explored this and had mapped it out.
After a point, a German couple came and joined us in the water. We were chatting with them and they said they love Sri Lanka and that is so green and diverse. Very different to Dubai where they lived, and Germany. I concurred that Sri Lanka is truly a blessed island.
After swimming for about half an hour, we got out and wiped ourselves and managed to change in the darkness as no one else was there. Wearing tights again was a bit challenging but we managed and went back again wearing our helmets and lights. The return trip seemed a bit quicker – there were some funny little flying insects which kept getting up our noses. I was a little sniffly from them and the wet hair but otherwise it was fine.
We arrived back up into the daylight and removed our helmets and made our way back to the start of the trail. There was a lady selling fresh local orange juice and we had some with a dash of pepper.
It was a truly a lovely adventure and well worth experiencing. I did not find the trek down to be hard – I have done tougher hikes. Of course I clutched on to Keerthi throughout as I was nervous about slipping. But it was nothing as precarious and after a while you get used to it. They allow children above 5 years and during the rainy season they do not allow people to go.
Besides the Ravana myth associated with the location, in general, it is a lovely place that is further proof of the beauty of this island if nothing else.
